|Frequently asked questions||Updated: 2007-09-11||Comments|
|This is the unofficial 101-FAQ. Hopefully this page will answer many questions that newcomers may have. Some day even hardcore Aphrodite-sailors might be able to pickup something usefull. If you know stuff you want to share with the rest of us, drop me a mail about it and the FAQ will grow. This is only the beginning.|
|Is there a standard engine?|
Not really. There is a standard minimum weight defined in the class rules for the entire engine installation, but that's about all there is. The D50 has a Yanmar. The D134 has a Volvo. The D300 has a BUKH. The D45 has a Vetus. A few boats even have battery powered engines. Some boats have saildrives; Others have shafts.
|Improving wind angle when going upwind|
The running backstay is key to performance when going upwind. From 5 m/s to 15 m/s is has a significant impact on the windangle. By setting the running backstay correctly you can improve your windangle by as much as 2 to 3 percent without loosing any speed. Be prepared to gradually - as per wind conditions - pull at least 10cm by the winches in order to achieve max results.
|Using the running backstay|
On the old mast the running backstay were needed to prevent the mast from going overboard in winds over 10 m/s and short steep waves. The new profile is much stronger, so this it no longer the case. However, the running backstay can be used to minimize the windangle going upwind. At 5 m/s this begins to have an effect. When cruising there is no need to use the running backstay unless you cruise in winds above 15 m/s or so.
|Where is the minireef?|
Back in the old days my dad often used the minireef to flatten the main. However, modern sails are so flat by design, that there is no need for the minireef, which is why it is often not implemented.
|Why is there only one reef in the danish design sails?|
The first masts were a bit more soft that todays model. This meant that the mast would break when using the second reef in heavy wind conditions. The trick was to keep the main in order to keep the mast.
|What's that new rudder all about?|
Size matters. The original rudder had problems providing sufficient grip under certain conditions. Heavy wind and sudden winds often made the rudder loose its grip whereby the boat tacked spontaneously. Not good. Sometime back in the mid eighties they decided to fix this by enlarging the rudder. The new rudder is deeper and longer.
I have received quite a few request for info on how to distinguish the new rudder from the old one. Here's the deal. The new rudder measures approximately 1290mm on the aftward edge, 270mm on the bottom edge and 1020mm on the forward edge. The top edge is 470mm, and the longest diagonal is 1132mm. That oughta do it.
|How to use the spinnaker downhaul...|
|Some people only set the spinnaker in low to medium wind. They
don't need the downhaul. However, setting the spinnaker in heavy winds with a close windangle
- or in
large waves - calls for setting the downhaul. Sooner or later the pole
will flip up, - leaving your spinnaker in a
far from optimal trim and your boat in chaos with the keel getting a
tan. I am not saying that you should use the downhaul at all times.
What I am saying is make sure you have the downhaul ready, when the
need for it arises. Night, heavy winds, large waves, spinnaker - time
to use the downhaul.
Many Aphrodites have had their downhaul attached on the middle of the front deck. This is no good, as it prohibits the horizontal trimming of the pole. Instead the downhaul should be attached at the foot of the mast allowing the pole (and the spinnaker) to swing freely around the vertical axis of the spinnaker, - the mast.
Make sure to use a crowfoot when you attach the downhaul to the pole, or the pole will bend or even break in heavy wind conditions. Also, make sure the downhaul looks different from the uphaul. Spectra is a good candidate for this. Four millimeters should be more than sufficient.
|What is the difference between the old and the new mast?|
|The old masts are softer and less stable than the new masts. This is due to differences in the profile. The old masts are typically from Elvstrøm or Isomat. Now, the Elvstrøm mast has the profile of an ellipse. The Isomat mast has the profile of an ellipse with at slight v-shape on the aft side. On DEN50 the old Isomat mast became unstable and difficult to trim with age, - especially when exposed to wind over 10 m/s combined with short, steep waves over one meter or so. Going upwind the boat would hit a wave with a bang, - and the mast would tremble like a well cooked spaghetti. Sometimes it would even invert, and we had trouble getting it back to normal. The running backstays did not help at all, since setting them would only apply pressure to the mast making it look even more well cooked. Many other Aphrodites lost the old mast in action at sea, - often due to cracks in the lower shrouds. The new profile is an ellipse with a flat aft side, which makes it much more stif. The shrouds are fastened to the mast in a much improved way, and the new mast typically also comes with a different footage. It can easily be fitted over a weekend. (See elsewhere on this page about changing mast). Both Nordic Mast and John Mast can deliver a fine mast. They can both be found via your favorite search engine.|
|Moving the barberhaul|
|Originally the barberhaul is located just aft of the shrouds. This is a problem because the spinnaker sheet rubs against the rigging screw. This wears the sheet out. Fast. To avoid this the barberhaul can be moved forward and fastened to the rail. Alternatively the barberhaul can be fastened on one of the chain plates. This also reduces the need for a downhaul on the spinnerpole. See stuff on downhaul elsewhere on this page.|
|Whats wrong with the winches?|
|Nothing. The original Lewmar winches are the usual Lewmar quality. However, after 20-25 years of service the lower (hidden) part of the winch may break. A replacement can easily be acquired at the local yachting shop.|
|How come the boat is called 101 when it is only 9.95 meters??|
|Well, - the first boat was designed and built as a 10,10 meter hull. The constructor then learned about a an upcoming set of racing rules that would punish boats longer than 10 meters. Can you believe that?? They then sawed off some of the boat in the rear, to make it the current length of 9.95 meters. That is why our beautiful 101 is actually a 995, - and that is why she drags water aft. However, there is one good thing about it. In some harbours you pay per length, and often the price goes dramatically up at ten meters.|
|Where do I fasten the topshrouds?|
|The Aphrodite 101 has two chain plates in each side.
The top shrouds goes on the chain plate closer to the bow. The lower shroud goes
(naturally) on the aft chain plate.
Some Aphrodites actually have three chain plates in each side. The third being positioned a half meter in front of the others. I have only seen a shroud mounted on this chain plate once. On the DEN50. We quickly removed it. Ofcourse such a shroud would fix the middle of the mast in a certain position, if both lower shrouds were tightened. It could also be used to prohibit the mast from being inverted, if trimmed carefully. I suppose this could be useful in big waves.
|Is the keel falling off?|
|Nah. Most Aphrodites I've seen have a crack on the keel, just where led meets plastic. The crack is usually most visible on the front of the keel and often it is not visible at all on the aft half of the keel. However, DEN2, - the oldest existing boat, - still has its keel where it is supposed to be, and the boat is still moving fast on the racetrack. On DEN50 we tried to tighten the keel bolts. They could all be tightened by a 180 degrees with no visible result on the outside. We used a very large wrench and a one and a half meter water pipe to increase the torque. Do not use an ordinary ½" wrench. It takes at least 3/4" or 1", and beware not to overtighten or the keel will fall off.|
|Kan man selv skifte rorlejer?|
Flere ældre Aphroditer har slør i rorlejerne. Symptomer er små slag i pinden og små bankelyde i skroget under agterrummet. RET irriterende. Nye lejer til de lidt ældre 101'ere kan ikke fås hos forhandleren . Skift rorlejerne - sådan:
Roret understøttes med klodser - alternativt sættes 1 eller 2 gaster under rorbladet. Den gennemgående bolt bagerst i rorpinden tages ud og pinden tages af. De 2 pinolskruer i hver side af rorbeslaget løsnes helt. Den store umbracoskrue løsnes helt. Rorbeslaget tages af. Roret er nu frit hængende og kan tages ud af rorstammen. (Det kan være der skal graves et par fliser op). Sagens kerne er de 2 ca. 5 cm lange bronzelejer, der sidder i hver sin ende af rorstammen. Disse kan måske tages ud med en tang. Alternativt må der bankes oppe og nedefra med en ca. 1 m lang jern eller stålstang. (jeg lånte en sådan på værftet). De 2 bronzelejer køres til Frihavnens Maskinfabrik, tlf.nr. 39270011. Evt. sammen med roret, hvilket dog ikke er nødvendigt. På dette særegne sted fra fortiden laves der topprofessionelt arbejde i alle afskygninger til en fair pris. Man kan bare ikke se det udefra. Prisen for 1 leje er ca. 500 kr. hvis han er i dårligt humør. De nye lejer bankes let i rorstammen og herefter går det den modsatte vej dog nu med lidt ny smøreolie. Vi er 2 101'ere der har foretaget udskifningen selv med godt resultat. D9 og D131. Evt. spørgsmål er velkomne.
|Tonny, DEN131, 20000427|
|Can the mast footage be reused when changing mast?|
|Nope. Back in 1995 we swapped the old Isomat mast with the new Nordic
mast on Courageous. The Nordic mast came with a new footage that was
different from the old one. The holes were at a different location,
and the new foot does not allow trimming of the footpoint, whatever
that is in english. The old footage allowed us to adjust the location
of the mast forward and backward. Loosing this trim ability does not
seem to be a problem.
The old foot was mounted on the deck, and it was attached to the supporter under deck via four bolts. On DEN50 we fitted a 6mm steel plate matching the old holes. The steel plate then has new holes for the new mast footage, which is then mounted on top of the plate. That way we avoided drilling new holes in the boat, and we also divide the pressure from the mast over a bigger area.
|How is the front stay fastened?|
|Ooops. On all boats the front stay is fastened to the deck. On the older boats the deck is supported by a bridge just under the fastening point of the front stay. This bridge was made of wood, and that piece of wood tends to rot after 20 years of salt water. There is a risk that the front stay will pull you deck up, so this is important to check and fix. However, most boats have had the wooden bridge refitted with a metal bridge of some kind.|
|Må masten bue bagud på midten?|
Masten er beregnet til at bue fremover på midten, og den kan tage varig skade af at bue den forkerte vej. Desuden er det ødelæggende for sejlfaconen.
Hvis masten buer bagover er undervanterne sat for hårdt, topvanterne sat for blødt eller også begge dele på een gang. Af og til buer masten lidt bagud på midten ved spilerskæring grundet stagens tryk på masten. Hækstaget kan benyttes til at støtte masten i denne situation.
|Morten, DEN50, 20000426|
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